ex .
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sU_i/'Jt>
pin. Test door and, if correct, tap
both pins home.
STEP 1 3
In most cases, you will
install door handle about halfway
up door. The template supplied
with handle gives backset and hole
diameter for face of door (here,
70mm from door edge and 50mm
diameter) and diameter of latch
hole (here, 25mm). Use a hole
saw to bore large hole until centre
point comes through back of door.
Then work from back to finish hole
without leaving a huge exit wound
on back of door.
STEP 14
Use a Speedbor to drill
from centre of edge into the large
hole in door.
STEP 1 5
Hold latch in place and
mark around plate as this needs
to be housed in edge of door.
Chisel out housing for latch, then
screw latch in place.
STEP 16
Close door and mark
position of striker on doorjamb.
Bore a 25mm hole where latch
will enter jamb, then mark and
chisel a housing for striker plate.
Screw in position.
STEP 17
Remove hardware from
door (and jamb, if required) and
paint the entire door, including
the top edge.
Sash windows
Sash (or box-frame)
windows are a beautiful
blast from the past and
really suit the older
homes to which they
belong.
The
glazed
sashes slide in channels
counterbalanced with
pairs
of
cast-iron
weights attached
to
cords. Over the years,
these cords perish and
break, so the sashes
lose
hold
of
their
position
and
crash
down. Screwing the
windows shut is not a
very good solution,
especially as replacing
the
cords
is
not
a
'difficult process.
Fix a sash window
GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES
■ Sash cords, to match
existing (No 8 is common,
4 x height of window for
each sash)
■ Clouts or button-head screws
Note:
For guidance, see Sash
Window Diagram (over page)
HERE’S HOW
STEP 1
Remove any screws or
props that are holding window
in place and gently let top
window sash down.
STEP 2
To replace sash cords
you need to prise off stop
beads and remove sashes
from window, starting with
bottom sash. Use a utility knife
to cut paint film between
window frame and stop bead
on the inside.
STEP
3
Use
a
7-in -1
plasterer’s tool or broad chisel
to gently prise bead on 1
side
away from frame. As they are
usually mitred into corners,
work from centre to top and
bottom, because you have to
bow the bead in the middle to
remove it from the mitre. The
small nails holding it at top and
bottom will pop out. Remove
bead, then punch nails back
through it so you can easily
re-nail when needed.
STEP 4
Repeat for other side,
then remove bottom inner
sash. Cut remaining sash cords,
if necessary. If bottom cords
were recently replaced (as was
the case here), leave sash
hanging by its cords as you
remove outer sash from behind
it. The upper sash is held by
parting beads that sit between
sashes. Use the same tools to
loosen parting beads. They’re
often not nailed in place but are
held in a groove with a film of
paint. Spring them loose, then
pull away from window frame.
STEP 5
Pull out top sash
from behind bottom sash.
Lightly sand beads and sash
frames to remove any excess
and cracked paint.
STEP 6
Use a knife to gently
loosen and remove pocket
piece. It is not normally nailed in
place, just housed in the top
sitting on a rebate atthe bottom. ►
BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS, APRIL 2011 bhg.com.au
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